The Galapagos IslandsThe Galapagos Islands
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From the air, Peru is a land of jewels. The ice-clad Andean peaks remind me of the grandest diamonds. Passing from that realm and into the highlands, the earth radiates other jeweled tones. It is the end of the wet season, and the land is awash in brilliant greens and rich reds, occasionally accentuated by rainbows that bring to mind the gold that was so important to Inca culture.




A brief stop in Cuzco—at the Monasterio Hotel, where we are introduced to the curative properties of coca tea—is a tantalizing glimpse of the Spanish colonial grandeur that awaits us at the end of our Andean exploration. But now the countryside lures us with the promise of fabulous Inca ruins.




Inca stonework is fascinating for its precision, and today we visit two prime examples: the great fortress of Sacsayhuaman, home of the "Inti Raymi" or Festival of the Sun, and Pisac, an immense fortress perched above the Rio Urubamba. As an artist I feel connected to the artisans who crafted these places, and even more so for having hiked the same paths through the same gorgeous country as they did.




This first day is packed with sights: Sacsayhuaman, Pisac (with its vibrant market), Tambo Machay, and Kenko. We've started at the "deep end," and it's nice to have a comfortable place to rest at the end of such a busy day. The Sol y Luna turns out to be just that! We get our own little bungalow in which to relax, clean the camera gear, and get a good night's sleep before…

…REALLY jumping in at the deep end! In the dry season the Rio Urubamba is a shimmering current gently wending its way through the valley. But now it's a roiling ribbon of terra cotta, swollen with runoff, careening toward the ocean. The guides opt for a calmer section that allows us to enjoy the scenery rather than dodging big holes.




After enjoying a huge, delicious lunch prepared by the guides, we're off to Ollantaytambo, the site of an Inca victory over the Spanish army. Next to Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo gives me the strongest sense of having once been a living community, perhaps because much of the residential portion is still relatively intact, right down to the water system.









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